Today we left you a quote for seeding your lawn. The best time to seed is September 1st through October 25th. The earlier the better. Please look over our recommendations for seeding your lawn. We get asked many questions about seeding. In this newsletter we hope to answer some of these questions. If you think of any other questions, please give us a call!
The best looking lawns are the lawns that are over seeded on a regular basis. Over seeding is the best way to a thick, full, and healthy lawn! The ClassicLawns seeding process gives excellent results that we guarantee. We often are asked, “How often should I seed my lawn?” Most universities’ turf programs recommend over seeding every 3– 5 years. While we agree with this, our summers are tough on grass here in the Midwest and it may be necessary to seed a little more often. In fact, we get the best results when we seed back to back years. Then seed every 3 years or as needed.
We only use the best premium turf-type tall fescue seed on our lawns. Turf-Type Tall Fescue is the best grass suited for our Midwest weather. It has a deep root system, a nice dark green color, is more drought tolerant and disease resistant, and germinates as quick as 7 days. We insist that our seed has no weed seed and no crop seed. It costs more, but it is worth it! The seed industry is constantly evolving. Every year there is a better seed that has a better color, is more disease resistant, and is more drought tolerant. This is one of the many reasons you should seed regularly. If you have not seeded in the last two years, there is a much better grass seed than what you currently have in your lawn.
Basically, there are 3 methods we use to seed lawns. Core Aeration and Over Seeding, Over Seeding and Verticutting, and Core Aeration, Over Seeding and Verticutting. Part of the ClassicLawns seeding process is evaluating your lawn and determining the best method of seeding to give you the best results. When quot- ing seeding we consider things like soil condition, soil compaction, the amount of sunlight, the traffic your lawn receives, your watering capabilities, and how much thatch you have in your lawn.
Which seeding method we use is determined by these conditions.
Fertilizer + Grassy Weed Preventer
Fertilizer + Grassy Weed Preventer Mowing Reducer
Fertilizer + Grub Control
Summer Weed Control
Fall Fertilizer Fall Seeding
Winterizer
Soil Amendments Dormant Seeding
A core aeration is one of the best “extras” that you can do for your lawn. A core aeration is the process of removing cores 1/2” in diameter and 3”-4” long from the lawn. This process helps loosen clay, compacted soils, aids in controlling thatch and allows air, water, and nutrients to reach the root system easier.
We have horrible soil here in Springfield and a core aeration is the best way to improve our soils. Ideally, we believe you should core aerate your lawn at least once a year. Golf courses aerate their greens once a month. All we ask is once a year! Unlike some companies core aerations, ClassicLawns does a double pass heavy core aeration every time with cores at least 3” long… usually longer. Your neighbor from across the street will know you have had your lawn aerated.
Soil compacts in the top two inches. A Core aeration penetrates this compacted layer reducing soil compaction.
The cores pulled from the soil contain bacteria and enzymes that aid in the decomposing of thatch.
The holes produced provide natural channels for water and fertilizer to enter into the root zone.
The added air and water movement will stimulate the roots to penetrate deeper into the soil.
The hole created by the plug provides a perfect bed for the new seed to grow. Plus, you virtually guaranteed seed will germinate in the aeration holes no matter how poorly you water!
Now that you know the incredible benefits of core aeration, let’s talk about seeding with your core aeration. We most likely recommend that we do some seeding with the core aeration. We may have suggested spot seeding as needed or a complete over seeding of you lawn. Which one depended on how thick or thin your lawn was. If your lawn was a little thin and had a few poor/bad areas we probably just recommended spot seeding as needed. If we considered your lawn to be thin or if it had disease problems, we probably suggested over seeding the entire lawn.
For any seed to geminate it has to have good seed to soil contact. The holes made with core aeration make a great bed for seed to land in. Plus, the plugs of dirt that are pulled up fall back over the top of the seed. This is almost a guarantee that seed will succeed in every aeration hole!
Green GuaranteeTurf Builder and Mowing Reducer Treatment (Click Here)
Tired of mowing every 3 days? Sign up for our Mowing Reducer Treatment and spend more time enjoying your lawn & less time mowing it!
Flea, Tick & Insect Control (Click Here)
Don’t share your yard with annoying, biting insects. Let us treat your yard so you can enjoy the outdoors with your family and friends.
Bed Weed Control
Sign up for our magnificent Bed Weed Control program to reduce weeds in your beds by up to 85%!
The absolute best “extra'” thing you can do for your lawn. Core aeration helps loosen heavy clay soils, promotes better rooting and helps minimize thatch.
Seeding Your Lawn the ClassicLawns Way (Click Here)
The best lawns are regular seeded with newer and better varieties of seed. We can do anything from spot seeding all the way to a full lawn renovation with our premium weed free grass seed.
A HEAVY rate of lime to raise soil pH and to improve the soil.
Mole Control
We often get asked if we can do anything to get rid of moles. Here is our response! (Click Here)
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